Feed

I work in a fabulous place (dorm) called Chadbourne Residential College (CRC) as a House Fellow (most places call this position RA).  Every year, CRC holds a convocation as a welcome for all of the students.  This year, the theme for convocation had to do with technology.  This theme was chosen because the common read (book of the year) is Feed by MT Anderson.  Feed is about a futuristic world where people have chips put in their head.  Think facebook, twiter, and an endless stream of advertisement going on in your brain.  For the technology theme, the student staff of CRC had to make individual videos.  These videos would be put together in a way that worked like the feed from the book.  I chose to make my video about making clothing (obviously).

Here's the video for you to enjoy:

New Game

I've started drafting my own patterns. The only problem is that I'm failing miserably. I've tried to make a shirt about 5 times (no less), and each project turned out to be a mess. I really need a mentor!!! If this is journey, I need my Dumbledore/Gandalf/Brom/Yoda to come now!!!

The only problem is that in this world, mentors cost money... ugh. What annoys me most is when someone who knows what he/she is doing posts a video about how to do something... but stops at the second step only to ask us to purchase their videos. I can't blame them; they paid money to learn the tricks they know. And, seeing as fashion/designing is a huge trend now, one trick might make someone the next best designer. If I was the one with the information, I would want a chunk of the money someones makes after using the information I gave him/her.

This isn't just a fashion problem though. This money aspect happens in all aspects of life. It's a huge factor in education. Why is college so pricey? Shouldn't everyone have a right to the same level of education (regardless of brain power)? Why can only some afford grad school? Why are there so many talented high schoolers unable to go to college with the military as their only option? This money issue is also prevalent in sports: look at rowers, speed skating, shooting (side note: i can't believe shooting is a sport), etc. I don't want to continue on this train of thought because it could get political. As a Minnesotan, that's that last thing I need. Bottom line, if you have money you can make yourself into a better-than-average-whatever-you-want. This shouldn't be news. Fortunately, hard work and talent play a factor. Hopefully this will get me somewhere if money doesn't.

So on to my biggest problems: 1) measurements and 2) sleeves.

1) Measurements- This is probably the number one most important aspect to fashion. Make one place in a garment a little bigger, and the whole look can start to look dowdy. My issue is that I don't know where that one place is. I don't know what can be given ease and where things have to be fitted. I don't know where exactly on the body the certain measurements are taken. This issue really stems from my lack of knowledge about clothes. For most of my life, I have worn a jersey t shirt with either jeans or sweats, which are all eased to the max! Fortunately, the drafting I have done gave me a better understanding of fit an measurements. For example, I now know that even though my chest is exactly 36" [okay it's more like 34"... point 5; i need more muscles! Not to worry, I still love my body for what it is and you should too!!!], if i make the circumference 36", I won't be able to get in.

Two things will help me a lot on the measurement problem. The first is a dress form. I really can not take measurements on myself. I do not have eyes on my back, and every time i grab for the tape measure, I will bend in a way that alters the correct measurement. The second thing I need is someone to show me on the dress form and on a person where and how to take the measurements.

2) Sleeves: It's my Achilles' heel. I just can't handle the ease that needs to be at the cap. There is one type of sleeve I can handle and it's called the shirt sleeve. I can handle it because there's not a lot of ease at the cap. So why are sleeves are problem? Because I can't draft a shirt sleeve. I've tried many, many times. and every single time the garment feels weird. In the beginning I thought it was mostly because the armhole was drawn incorrectly. Then I learned it was my pattern. I noticed that everytime I lifted up my arm the whole garment came up. This is normal as the sleeve is connected to the side, but, it was going up more than it usually does. On my last project I made the arm hole bigger (and consequently the sleeve bigger) This this only intensified the issue. I then set in the sleeve, and the fit felt way better. my movement was not as restrained. When I applied the sleeve in the shirt sleeve method, I kind of made an extension of the side. As a set in there was a separation of body and sleeve.... Are you getting this? This is very difficult to explain without visuals... I'm just so embarrassed about my work though!!!

For my sleeve problem I need someone to show me how to draft a sleeve.

I am so fed up. I'm seriously at a point where I just want to give everything up! I understand this is a challenge, and I understand that if I give up now, I'll feel more pain later than I am now. But still, I don't like how difficult it is to get some decent information. I think I'm on the end of what has consumed me for these last four years.

I will end on one positive: I am so happy that I learned how to sew! If I did not, I would still be in this weird confusion state. I now know about a field that I never would have been exposed to! I learned the pros and cons of taking a certain path. I've met some really nice people (and on the flip side, and just as important, some terrible people). But most importantly, I've learned how to experience something that interests me. This discovery is perhaps the best present I have ever received. Now, regardless of whatever interests me, I'll know how to step forward in that journey.

Prediction

Hi, Everyone!
I have a lot to cover, but I can't expect you to sit and read everything. So here's an outline for you to choose your topic of interest:

1) Comments
2) School
3) Recent project and reflections (youtube video of my work in this section)
4) Where I'm headed
5) "Fairness" Cream
6) Oil

1) Comments
Some of my readers have left comments with lots of encouragement and suggestions. However, I never really got back them. If you have commented, THANK YOU!!! I'll keep everything in consideration.
Tonya Trabant asked the nature of my "revolution." Well, I think it has to do with overthrowing a future that did not make sense for me and trying something different. My initial goal was seeing how far this idea went. Now, I want something bigger: online store, show at New York Fashion week, someone to wear my creations at a red carpet event. My new goal is totally on Saturn, but I think dreaming big is always good! Nevertheless, I'm keeping myself grounded by taking reasonable steps (I learned my lesson from DS 153).

2)
So I've complained about school a lot in all of my posts. I'm not really happy about it because it adds a dark element to this blog, so I'm not going to do it in this post (lol, maybe in the next post)!

3)
This semester I was enrolled in DS 154, Fabric and Apparel Structures II. The best definition of this class is from my schools course guide: "Analysis of fabric suitability in relation to silhouette, target market and consumer end use." In other words, this class was all about research, which I like because I've come to realize that school can not teach me everything. School will give me some resources to make my plans achievable. However, it is up to me to explore those resources in depth.
The main project in this class was to come up with a 5 piece collection. Because of time limitations, we were required to make 3 out of the 5 pieces. I've compiled a fun video to show you what I made!



Students in DS 154 are limited by one factor, zero to little patterning skills. So in order to make this collection we had to search for patterns that would go together. What I really wanted from this class was experience. I wanted to make a lined jacket with lapels and fly front pants. So I looked for patterns with these elements. However, as I was looking for patterns I fell in love with designs that had organic lines in the form of gathering that draped beautifully around curves:
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1238-products-14149.php?page_id=858
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1016-products-8946.php?page_id=858
http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/43764

The three links above and the three pieces in the video became part of my 6 piece collection (I increased the number in my collection because I thought the pieces fit better). The three pieces in the video are a lot more tailored. However, I tried to make up for this by emphasizing the princess seams which outline the the curves beautifully. For the pants, I altered the pattern to add lines that went with the theme (the fabric was the the same, just reversed in places to get that darker color).

[Note: the patterns in links are altered to includes the colors you see in the video...]

Fabric: For this project one main component was using a fabric we've never used before. I chose metallic in the form of lamé. Lamé is used heavily in theatrical costumes and evening wear. Because my collection was mostly evening wear, my choice was great.

Evening gown in video: I pattered the "mermaid-tail" portion. Originally this bottom was supposed to have an under-structure to make the mermaid bottom a lot more voluminous (I like to use the term poofy). But time restraints cut that idea out in a snap. Now that I have time (summer vacation), I might complete my original vision... but no promises!

Overall, I'm happy with what I've made. My goal was to make a lined jacket with lapels and fly front pants, and I did that. Also, I found a new way to make pants look interesting. Finally I know that the evening gown looks a bit wonky, but ultimately, I'm glad that I experimented with combining different fabrics! I got a lot of points docked off for the jacket because it was so tailored. I agree, but I'm not complaining that I made it!

What do you think? Comments help me improve!

4) Where I'm headed
Well, I've bought a lot of books on technology and fashion, and I've got a couple of books on pattern making. I also bought this pattern (on sale, of course, I would never pay $18):
http://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1249-products-14160.php?page_id=264
So I'll start somewhere in there. I can't really decide where to start... the technology books are very interesting though!!!

5) Fairness Cream
I am so sick of watching commercials that sell products to lighten up your skin color! It's revolting that the media is telling people that one shade is more advantageous and socially acceptable. If you're reading this now, go to a mirror and tell yourself that you are beautiful, because you truly are!!!
The fashion industry is heavily criticized for targeting unnatural body types. I don't disagree that it's happened. So, my message to you is that you are GORGEOUS just the way you are :) Don't ever feel pressured to change.

6) Oil
For most of the year, I live on a college campus. Because of this, I really don't need a car (most of my classes are 5 mins away). However, I recently went on a trip where I passed a gas station. $4/gallon. Not cute! I was so shocked! I asked my parents what's up, and they said it's the same situation where they come from. Omg, what? Can we re-evaluate our lives here?

Plaid!

The best way to start is with a photo of a shirt I made!

Currently I’m taking DS 154 which is a continuation of the class I took last year. One of the first assignments (if you couldn’t guess already) was to make a plaid t-shirt. The objectives of this assignment were to learn how to match plaid (relative to all nap fabrics), attach a two piece collar, use bias, and apply pockets, button holes, and buttons.

I already had experience with attaching a two piece collar, working with bias, and applying a buttons because of the jacket and Skirt we made in the previous class. So for me, the big take away message from this assignment was matching.

We did not draft the pattern ourselves, so I feel it necessary to give credit to the pattern: Simplicity 7030. I did alter the pattern a little bit with respect to the front placket. In the pattern, the edge of the side front pieces are rolled under to become the placket. This would have made the place where the buttons go a continuation of the sides (horizontal lines). That would have been okay, but I wanted to add more visual interest. So (as you can see from the plethora of pictures) I cut the pattern to have the placket be on bias (diagonal lines).

I know for sure that I’m going to make many more of these shirts over the summer. The techniques are great for practice, and I don’t look bad when I wear the shirt! With that said, the one thing I’m changing is the hem line; it’s way too long!

Interesting story:
My shopping experience for this project was not positive. I wanted to save money, but all of the good [aesthetically pleasing] fabrics were $5-$13/yd. Normally, that’s a good price range, but I didn’t want to spend over $20 on a t-shirt; most of my own t-shirts are less than $10! So I was literally searching the store for a good 2 hours before I just gave up and chose the fabric you see above. Alone, the fabric was the grossest thing in the world. It was a salmon-orange color with black and red lines. Halloween anyone? I wanted to puke. The only thing that made me slightly happy was the fact that the fabric was $3.25/yd and the buttons were really cool (they looked like jewels). Interestingly, everyone in the class (and some of my other friends) were like, “Ooo, Burberry, Burberry!” And I was like, “Burberry, who? You can have this junk.” (Side note: don’t worry, I’ve done my research, I know who/what Burberry is). HOWEVER, by the end of the shirt I was super proud! The shirt looks really great and I can wear it outside without blinding people. The fabric actually looks good! So lesson number two: a well made garment can make gross fabric look awesome.

(And as a bonus I got a 97%).

The person in the above picture is AWESOME!!!!! Her name is Hana, and she took the pictures of me. I did not make her shirt.